What Makes Greg Long Tick?
by Chris Dixon
Last Man Standing. Screen Grab from Patrick Trefz’s “Into the Mind of Greg Long.”
Yesterday, surf photographer Patrick Trefz posted up a terrific short video on big wave surfer Greg Long. If “Into the Mind of Greg Long” doesn’t leave you in awe of the ocean and with a deep level of respect for one of the sport’s philosopher warrriors, there’s something wrong with you. Watch the film and see for yourself.
When those five minutes are up, scroll down and watch the remarkable speech Greg gave in November at the National Geographic Society in Washington, DC. Before a live audience, this humble hellman speaks with eloquence and candor about what it took to come back from his near drowning in 2012, and how damned close he came to simply giving up big wave surfing altogether.